Hi Shaun,

What sort of back lead do you use and recommend?

I use four different types of back lead in my own fishing so let’s look at the ones I use and the reasons I use them.

Captive back leads

Captive back leads – Apart from some homemade affairs the only captive back leads I have used for any period of time is the Fox version with the hinged gate system. I find these to be excellent to allow a free passage of line to maximise bite indication. This free passage is essential if you are going to be able to register drop back takes.

I find that captive back leads need to be quite heavy to allow quick bite registration. The first ones I purchased were 1oz (28 gram) from memory but these would lift up in the water on the take which would therefore lessen the indication on the alarm and bobbin.

Rather than purchase another set of back leads I simply cut off the weight, slid on a flat in line Korda lead then re-tied the original back lead on. The Korda lead gripped the swivel of the Fox Captive lead just as it would on a standard semi-fixed in-line rig. My captive leads were then just over 2oz and they certainly perform better and release easier than they ever did at 1oz. I also feel they actually sit better being less inclined to topple over with the added weight at the back.

The only other modification I made was to replace the bright green cord which they come supplied with. I just didn’t like to see it although there is the argument to be able to see it of course. I replaced mine with a subtle grey/black hollow fly line backing.

My standard back lead components

Standard Back Leads – By this I mean the free running type of back lead you clip on and slide down the line after casting. I have tried all sorts of different types and still end up making my own to the same design as I first made many years ago.

The ring on several back leads I have seen is too large. With most modern rigs shedding the main lead during the fight it is essential that the back lead if still attached can’t pass over the swivel and lead clip set up. If this happens you have effectively slid a disgorger into place!

My back lead set-up couldn’t be simpler and is relatively cheap to produce utilising 3 components available in most tackle shops.

  1. John Roberts Low Resistance Leger Rings – There are many other makes which will do the job just as well.
  2. Snap Links  – I usually purchase the Drennan ones but any snap link will do – they don’t need to be anything special or particularly strong
  3. Standard Arlesey Bombs – Standard swivel bombs ranging in size – I purchase the cheapest I can find.

The Low resistance ring in simply cut with scissors to allow the ring to be clipped on the line. I find the plastic on the Roberts Green version to be very soft which will help to shed the back lead if required. The black version is tougher as are many of the alternates out there.

Flying back lead

Flying Back Leads – My minor claim to fame is being the first person to write about these in Korda’s very first catalogue! In the past I have used simple barrel weights and spinner body parts but now there are many different flying back leads on the market. I particularly like those which can be removed with a flat end to them which creates air resistance to assist them sliding back up the line during the cast.

Tube segments – This is something I came up with a few years back whilst fishing very close in for some ultra wary carp. My lead core wasn’t following the contours of the lake bed properly and the fish were picking it up on their fins and spooking out the swim. The problem was due to small indents in the lake bed where the carp had created mini craters through sifting through the silt. The lead core wasn’t soft enough to follow the contours and sink into these.

I came up with the idea of cutting some heavy rig tubing into short lengths and threading these on the line above the rig. It worked an absolute treat and basically formed a chain which followed the contours much better than the lead core could.

I now use this method in a lot of my fishing for pinning the end bits down. By wrapping a small piece of Tungsten Putty around the tubing you can make some superb mini flying back leads.

So, there you have it. These are the back leads I favour and would be interested in hearing what everyone else uses. Everything can be improved upon so let’s see if anyone can add to this?

Best fishes, Shaun

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