I would use a rod with a “normal” test curve 2,50 /2,75 lb would be good for this, there are specialist rods designed for this.. the rods are build with a bit of backbone, to hit some distance..but still have a softer tip section that will make you feel the bottom structure better, and feel what its like, giving the best information

I personally use a old 2,75 lb rod for this , it does the job perfectly

I don’t use a marker rod that much, only in weedy waters to find the clear area’s..

Hopefully this helps you make up your mind

Go to the shop and try and feel the rods, after that you can decide what would suit you best

Goods luck

Greetz Roy van Goor

One thing I forgot was to make sure you get a quality marker float.
I have tried all sorts over the years and a large percentage of them are not built to last.
That said the Korda marker float is excellent as is the one from Crafty Catcher (I think thats what it was called. Available from Leslies of Luton)

Cheers

Jamie

I totally agree with what Elie and Jim are saying.
I currently use the Free Spirit long range marker and it is well worth the money.
The only thing I would add is that long term you will need a rod with good quality SIC rings, which the Free Spirit rod has.
The reason for this is the abrasive nature of the braid. Over a prolonged period it will flatten and damage poorer quality eyes.
This will in turn shorten your casting distance and weaken your braid.

Cheers

Jamie

I agree with what Jim says about test curves, the faster taper rods are better than many rods that are sold as purpose built marker rods. Having said that I have used Free Spirit mid and long range markers rods for a while now and they both do the job – the long range one has a stiffer tip.

I’m also delighted to see that like me, Jim uses a mono leader. Everyone goes on about using braid straight through but am I the only one who finds this tangles too often and won’t let the marker float pop up? I find this really frustrating!! I use braided line all the way through – Dynon 3000 at about 2Olbs (I thinks it’s 19.7) breaking strain which is superfine – and tie this to Seaguar fluorocrabon (23lbs b.s.) with a leader knot (check out Shaun’s video on knots on the Quest website). That works for me and rarely ever tangles and the fact most of the line is braid still transmits all the information I need about the bottom through the lead. The fluorocarbon leader length is just as you would for a casting leader – about 6′ off the rod tip down to the marker float and then enough to wind three or four turns around the reel spool.

If you are relatively new to marker float use, I would really recommend you spend a bit of time dragging a marker float set up across different types of lake bed in the margins – weed, gravel and silt – that way you can see what you are pulling across and start to relate that to what the rod tip and line tells you. Shaun also gave me a great tip about holding the line in one hand while you are pulling the lead across the bottom – this tells you a lot more than just the rod tip itself. Roughly speaking gravel on the lake bed taps, weed clings and silt is smooth.

Tight lines

Elie G